With several heat waves, Paris was hot again this summer. In August, hoping to escape the heat to a slightly cooler place, I went to Mont-Dore in the Auvergne region of central France. Located at an elevation of about 1,000 meters, it has been a ski resort since the early 20th century and is a popular destination for hiking and trail running in the summer.
We stayed in an apartment on the outskirts of town. There are also mountain-style chalets on the property. The apartment we rented had a retro feel to it; it was like visiting my grandparents’ house.
The first thing that surprised me at my apartment in Mont-d’Or was how cold the tap water was! It’s like ice water. It comes from spring water and groundwater in the volcanic region, so it’s very soft and easy to drink. It’s such a treat to have water that tastes good straight from the tap. I also bought some bottled water labeled “Mont-d’Or” that was bottled at a nearby spring, but the tap water was just fine.
There are many hiking trails around Mont d’Or. Among them, the Puy de Sancy (1,885 m), the highest peak in the Central Massif, is a must-see. From the summit, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the Auvergne volcanic region. You can walk to the summit from town, or take the cable car from the base all the way to the top in one go. Once you reach the summit, there are several hiking trails to choose from, depending on your fitness level.
Grande Cascade is a popular waterfall that’s easily accessible from town. Since you can walk right up to the waterfall, you can experience the impressive sight of this approximately 30-meter-high cascade up close.
Mont-Dore is a hot spring resort that has been in use since Roman times. It developed into a health resort in the 19th century and is said to be particularly effective for respiratory and rheumatic conditions. The Thermes du Mont-Dore facility is used as a medical spa, but it’s also popular among tourists for its spa treatments. I took a guided tour and was captivated by the beauty of the large dome-like space and the vibrant mosaic decorations. The room where you inhale the hot spring steam feels like a botanical garden. The facility has 13 natural springs, though only 8 are currently in use. I was surprised to hear that during the summer—when visitor numbers peak—between 1,000 and 1,250 people visit each day!
Just outside the town of Mont-d’Or, along the river, there is a free outdoor hot spring. The water is slightly milky and has a smooth texture. This spring has been in use since around 1900, and nearby there are the ruins of an old bathhouse. The water temperature is around 40°C even at its hottest point, and it gets considerably cooler the further downstream you go, though people who wanted to cool off would wade into the river next to it, which is as cold as ice water.
Château de Murol, located about a 20-minute drive from Mont d’Or, is steeped in medieval charm. Since I’d read that it gets very crowded during the vacation season, I arrived right at opening time. After listening to the guide—dressed in medieval costume—I decided to enter the castle without watching the popular jousting match featuring knights in armor, which turned out to be the perfect decision since the crowds were sparse. After taking our time exploring the great hall, kitchen, and chapel, we made our way to the top floor. From there, we enjoyed the breathtaking views of the surrounding area and watched the joust taking place in the courtyard.
The most interesting part of the tour of Murol Castle was the section on Guillaume II de Murol. He was a knight and lord of Murol Castle who lived from the late 14th century to the early 15th century, and the guided tours and historical reenactments held at the castle are set during his era.
He rose to prominence during a time when France was in turmoil due to the plague and the Hundred Years’ War. In the surrounding area, villages were falling into decline due to looting and epidemics. Consequently, he devoted his efforts to fortifying the castle as a refuge and defensive stronghold for the local residents, laying the foundation for the fortress we see today. He is particularly famous in history for having left behind ledgers and autobiographical notes that documented his work in great detail.
He passed away at around age 90, which was exceptionally long for that era, but these records were written over a 20-year period beginning when he was about 50. They cover everything from the terms of contracts with tenant farmers, payments to vassals, castle repair costs, and the management of food and livestock, to personal matters—such as the fact that his relationship with his second wife was rather rocky. It is thanks to these records that Murol Castle is able to so vividly recreate life as it was back then.
After leaving Château de Murol, we explored the small old town and Lac Chambon, among other sights, but Château de Murol, visible from all over, had a commanding presence.
© Source travel watch