Summer is finally in full swing in Hawaii. Under the bright, energetic sun, the ocean, palm trees, and flowers glow with stunning colors. The North Shore is the perfect place to visit at this time of year. There, you can experience the unique charm of northern Oahu—from towns that still retain the atmosphere of old Hawaii to the unspoiled natural landscapes.
This time, let’s go on a drive in Hawaii during summer vacation to soak up the North Shore vibe.
From Honolulu, take the H1 and H2 freeways all the way to the North Shore. Along the way, the Dole Plantation serves as the “gateway” to the North Shore, so to speak. If you plan to head straight to the beach, it’s a good idea to stop here for a restroom break. You can enjoy pineapple soft-serve ice cream and buy souvenirs, and the large parking lot makes it easy to park. By the way, among the trees surrounding the parking lot, there’s one with a rainbow-colored trunk—see if you can spot it.
From here, the path leads straight to the tree-lined avenue that runs along the northern coast of the island. After a short while, the ocean comes into view at eye level—that familiar feeling. Anyone who’s been here before will surely think, “Oh, yeah, this is it!”
As you press down on the accelerator (while observing the speed limit, of course), Cape Kaena comes faintly into view on your left. The exhilaration you feel while driving along this road might just be the best part of the North Shore Drive.
Then, the atmosphere of the town begins to settle in. The “Welcome to Historic Haleiwa Town” sign marks our arrival in Haleiwa, the gateway to the North Shore. In fact, this entire area was severely damaged by flooding caused by heavy rains this past spring. Now, the town is back to normal, and the usual summer atmosphere is in the air. Let’s grab some lunch first, then head to the beach.
As soon as you enter town, the first thing you’ll notice is the yellow building on your right. It’s “Sunrise Shack,” famous for its acai bowls. On your left, you’ll see “Kokua General Store.” This shop is run by Jack Johnson—one of Hawaii’s most celebrated musicians—and his wife, and it features a selection of eco-friendly products that respect Hawaii’s natural environment (as of mid-July, it was temporarily closed for renovations).
Further ahead is “North Shore Marketplace.” Here, “KONO’S”—which has been a local favorite ever since it opened to serve hungry surfers—is a popular spot. Be sure to try the kalua pork burrito (called the “Bomber” on the menu), a Hawaiian soul food classic. A little further on, you’ll see “Matsumoto Shave Ice” on your left—a spot that’s always packed with people waiting in line.
For lunch today, we went to “Kua Aina.” The burgers at the original Haleiwa location have a flavor that always makes me think, “This is the real deal,” no matter how many times I eat them. It’s nice to get takeout and eat it at the beach, but this time of year, the traffic is so bad that the food gets cold before you even reach the beach, so we decided to eat inside the restaurant instead.
Not only are the juicy burgers a must-try, but the ahi sandwich (known as an “ahi burger” in Japanese) here is absolutely exquisite. The lightly grilled tuna is so big it spills right out of the bun. Paired with crisp vegetables and a special sauce, it’s an absolute delight to take a bite—even if it makes your jaw almost dislocate.
When you think of Haleiwa, this bridge comes to mind. It’s the Anafulu Bridge, also known as the “Haleiwa Rainbow Bridge.” Built in 1921, it’s a symbol of the town with a history spanning over 100 years. It’s a familiar sight to see local kids jumping into the river below from here. It’s also a wonderful feeling to take a stand-up paddle (SUP) ride along the water’s surface beneath the bridge, where the river flows from the ocean—so if you’re interested, be sure to give it a try. Since it’s a river, there are no waves, making it enjoyable even for beginners.
From here, we’d love to head straight for the northern beaches… but Laniakea Beach—also known as Honu (Sea Turtle) Beach—is often a major bottleneck for traffic. Since the parking lot expansion is proceeding at a leisurely pace, let’s continue our drive without rushing, while hoping that the traffic here will eventually ease up.
Across from Shark Cove, where you can enjoy snorkeling, is Foodland, a local supermarket. It’s a good idea to pick up anything you might need here, such as items you forgot, drinks, or snacks. Just be aware that the restrooms aren’t available, so keep that in mind.
Enjoying the laid-back atmosphere of a country road lined with flowers and palm trees, I finally made my way to the beach. When people think of the North Shore, Sunset Beach—a stop for tour buses—is the standard choice, but the place I always head to is Ehu Kai Beach. It’s home to “Banzai Pipeline,” one of the world’s premier surf spots, and in the winter, it hosts surfing competitions that draw pros from all over the world. Beyond the expansive sandy beach lies the ocean, and nature stretches out as far as the eye can see. In winter, the waves are so powerful that you can’t go in the water, but in summer they’re relatively calm, so you can play at the water’s edge (this time, the waves were still too strong, so I gave up on going in…).
The water gets deep very suddenly, so please be extremely careful. In this area, you can also see plenty of “Naupaka Kahakai” blooming along the shore. The petals are only on the lower half of the flower. Incidentally, the “Naupaka Kuahivi” that blooms in the mountainous regions has petals only on the upper half; when the two are combined, they form a perfectly circular flower.
After relaxing on the beach, it’s time to head back to Haleiwa. Since vehicles drive on the right side of the road, you’ll be able to enjoy views of Waimea Bay’s beaches from the car on the way back. This beach is also known for its huge winter waves and serves as the venue for “The Eddie Aikau,” a surfing competition held only when wave heights exceed 6 meters. The parking lot gets quite crowded, so be prepared for that if you plan to stop by.
There might be traffic on the way back, too, but if there is, just take comfort in the “DRIVE WITH ALOHA” sign and drive safely. Before you know it, you’ll arrive in Haleiwa Town.
Once you’re in town, it’s a good idea to park at a shopping center like “Haleiwa Store Lots” or “North Shore Marketplace” and take a stroll while you shop.
By the way, the Starbucks at the very end of the street on the left is a hidden gem where you can order without waiting in line. It’s good to know.
With coffee in hand for the drive home, we set off, still basking in the afterglow of the North Shore and surrounded by the majestic mountains. The drive from Waikiki to the North Shore takes about 50 minutes to an hour. Even if you stop for lunch and spend some time relaxing on the beach, you can experience a different side of Hawaii in just half a day.
The shop, the bridge, and the ocean I showed you today are all still there, just as they were before the flooding caused by the heavy rains a few months ago. You don’t have to do anything special. Just come here for a drive. Eat a hamburger. Stand in line for some shaved ice. Just doing those things helps support this town.
The next time you’re in Hawaii, I really hope you’ll drive out to the North Shore.
© Source travel watch