I had some business to take care of in Frankfurt, Germany. Although the high-speed train ride from Paris to Frankfurt takes about four hours, I decided to drive. That’s because I wanted to stop at two towns along the Moselle River on the way back.
After finishing my business in Frankfurt, I headed first to the town of Bernkastel-Kues. It’s a popular tourist destination known for its wine and medieval streetscape. Since it’s a small town, I get the impression that many people just stop by briefly.
After parking the car, we walked up through the vineyards and arrived at Lantschutt Castle, perched on top of the hill. From here, you can take in a panoramic view of the towns and vineyards stretching along both banks of the Moselle River. Although the castle lies in ruins due to a fire, it has been beautifully restored, and there is even a restaurant where you can enjoy a meal while taking in the spectacular scenery.
As I walked down the hill and into town, I found myself in a picture-book-like world of cobblestone alleys and half-timbered houses. Grapevines were planted in front of houses here and there, and just walking around, taking in the windows and walls decorated with grape and wine motifs, filled me with a sense of excitement.
The “Leaning House,” built in 1416, and the Bear Fountain nearby are also popular attractions.
Bernkastel-Kues is one of the heartlands of Mosel wine. It is highly regarded as a region for Riesling, a grape variety used for white wine, and its steep, limestone and slate-rich vineyards produce wines with a distinctive minerality. The wine festival held every year in early September is one of the region’s largest events.
At the Mosel Wine Museum, you can sample wines and purchase bottles from the extensive selection lined up in the underground cellar. Since I don’t drink, I just looked around, but I think it’s a really fun place for wine lovers.
For dinner, we went to Alt Bernkastel, a German restaurant. We ordered schnitzel—thinly pounded meat coated in breading and deep-fried—and the restaurant’s recommended potato cake. We ordered the small-sized schnitzel, but it was still very filling!
Leaving Bernkastel-Kues behind, we’ve arrived at our next destination, Trier. Located along the Moselle River, it is one of Germany’s oldest cities and a historic city with numerous ruins dating back to the Roman era. It once flourished to such an extent that it was even called the “Second Rome,” and it boasts many tourist attractions.
The Porta Nigra (Black Gate), currently undergoing restoration, was built around the 2nd century and was considered a sturdy, impregnable gate. It is a popular photo spot.
There are several Roman bath ruins in Trier, and one of them is the Kaiserthermen. Construction began in the early 4th century, and it was intended to be a massive wellness complex featuring not only baths but also saunas, massage facilities, and a gymnasium. Although it was never completed as a bathhouse, the remains of water pipes and underfloor heating systems are still visible, and one cannot help but marvel at the advanced technical skills of the ancient Romans.
Trier Cathedral is a magnificent church known as one of Germany’s oldest cathedrals. It features a blend of ancient Roman, Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architectural styles, and I was overwhelmed by its solemn beauty, steeped in history. The most famous artifact at Trier Cathedral is the “Holy Robe,” believed to be the garment worn by Jesus Christ before his crucifixion. The room housing the Holy Robe was completely silent, and I was particularly struck by the sight of a woman who had been kneeling there for a long time, offering her prayers.
In contrast to the rectangular Trier Cathedral, the Church of Our Lady next door is circular—a church that’s filled with light and has a light, airy feel. I found the difference in atmosphere between it and Trier Cathedral fascinating.
Trier is also famous as the birthplace of Karl Marx. Karl Marx was born in 1818, and his birthplace has been turned into a museum. The museum features exhibits on Marx’s life, 19th-century European society, the history of socialism and communism, and their impact on the world. On the day I visited, there were many students there who appeared to be on a field trip. The town also has traffic lights featuring Marx and a massive statue of him donated by the Chinese government.
The Dry Königshaus is a medieval fortified townhouse in Trier where merchants and nobles once lived. Built around the 13th century, it is one of the oldest surviving examples of a medieval townhouse. The ground floor houses a modern café, and unless you know it’s there, you might walk right past it—it’s a building that doesn’t look nearly as old as it actually is.
Since I was getting a little tired of the German food I’d been eating since Frankfurt, I decided to have Persian food that night. It was a restaurant apparently run by a single owner, and the food—including a salad packed with herbs and a stew with just the right amount of spice—was delicious and easy on the stomach.
On the morning I left Trier, I took a walk along the Moselle River. Along the way, I saw several structures that I thought might be waterwheels, but they turned out to be giant manual cranes. They are a remnant of Trier’s past as a commercial city and were used to load and unload barrels of Moselle wine, stone, and construction materials.
There is also a stone bridge from the Roman era. Although the bridge itself has disappeared, you can see the remains (piers) of the bridge from the Roman Empire era.
Although both Bernkastel-Kues and Trier are located along the Moselle River, it was a very rewarding trip that allowed me to experience two historic cities with quite different atmospheres—one blending the world of medieval picture books with the ruins of the Roman Empire.
© Source travel watch