Matsusaka City in Mie Prefecture is known nationwide as a producer of Wagyu beef. Today, we’re featuring the “Original Special Selection Beef Bento” from the long-established Shinchiku Shoten, which was founded in 1895 (Meiji 28) in front of Matsusaka Station.
Matsusaka Station was established in 1893 (Meiji 26) with the opening of the Sangū Railway and continues to operate today as a station on the Kisei Main Line. The “Original Special Beef Bento” is an incredibly long-running station bento that debuted in 1959 (Showa 34) to coincide with the full opening of the Kisei Main Line (Kameyama–Wakayama) and is still sold today.
This ekiben, made with Matsusaka beef, was reportedly the most expensive ekiben in the country at the time of its release, priced at 150 yen. Even so, it is said that developing a product that remained tender and delicious even when cold—while keeping the price at that level—was a tremendous challenge.
It’s been 67 years since it first went on sale, and while the current price of 2,000 yen is a bit on the high side, it’s not the most expensive in the country, and apparently, the flavor remains just as it was back then.
As for the star ingredient—the beef—I don’t think it’s particularly tender for a Reiwa-era ekiben, given that there are now more dishes featuring even more tender beef than there were during the Showa era. However, its moderate texture is actually a plus these days, and combined with the slightly sweet sauce, it really makes the rice go down well. The side dishes are also classic; the simmered dishes are generally slightly sweet yet refreshing.
Although they may seem a bit plain overall, with the current retro trend, it’s a delightful part of the travel experience to still be able to enjoy these ekiben that have steadfastly preserved the flavors of the Showa era.
Incidentally, in 2002 (Heisei 14), the selection criteria for Matsusaka beef were revised, and while this ekiben is now labeled as “domestic Japanese Black beef,” the meat itself has reportedly remained unchanged since its launch—it continues to be sourced from a long-established butcher shop in Matsusaka City.
There are 35 different designs of wrapping paper to choose from that highlight the unique character of each ekiben (though one was sold out when I bought mine, so there were actually 34 available), and you can select one from a variety of photos ranging from current limited-express trains to Showa-era JNR rolling stock. This time, I chose the Limited Express Nanki (KiHa 82 series), and while selecting the wrapping paper—which has nothing to do with the taste—was surprisingly fun.
As an aside, in the 1970s, Hsinchu Shoten was approached by the then-Japanese National Railways about purchasing a decommissioned steam locomotive. The company reportedly bought one as a way to “repay the debt of gratitude for the meals the locomotive provided us (through the sale of ekiben and other items),” thereby playing a part in the Japanese National Railways’ financial recovery. The locomotive purchased at that time was the C11 312, which later played an active role on the Oigawa Railway; that specific unit is currently preserved as a static exhibit at “KADODE OOIGAWA,” a hands-on complex adjacent to Kadode Station on the Oigawa Railway.
As the name suggests, “eki-ben” are boxed lunches closely associated with “stations,” but the “Original Special Beef Bento”—which has such deep ties to the railroad and whose flavor can still be enjoyed today—is truly a rare treasure.
© Source travel watch